Saturday, December 6, 2008

Boony Doon 2004 Vin Gris De Cigare California

Most men given the choice between a fat juicy gourmet Bratwurst covered in a hearty German mustard in a ridiculously lush, crusty roll OR an ecomentalist Tofu sausage with an anaemic chai-soy aioli in a gluten-free flat bread with the consistency of cardboard will quite naturally plump for the comfortably sane German sausage.

Much the same I tend to keep my sideboard cellar stocked to the gunnels with Red wine, so breaking out a bottle of Vin Gris, Rosé nay Pink wine may come as a bit of a surprise. What's more I view ecomentalists with a rather large dose of healthy cynicism so this choice is even more of an oddity as this wine comes to us by way of Bonny Doon Vineyards biodynamic Rhone ranger, Californian wine guru and oddball ecomentalist Randall Grahm. Yes that's Grahm not Graham. Affect an English accent worthy of the most painful, inbred horse-faced British aristocrat and say pinky aloft and with a sneer "Graam".... perfect, you get the picture.

I was pleasantly surprised to discover this treat at Bel Air for an acutely reasonable $12 earlier this year and bought it on a whim because it was from top wine-wierd Randall Grahm and unusually for his plonk not ludicrous expensive. Vin Gris "Gray Wine" is a Rosé or Pink wine but made without maceration. In the Rhoné style, Vin Gris De Cigare comprises 47% Grenache, 27% Cinsaut, 14% Syrah, 7% Grenache Blanc and 5% Roussanne.

Anyway popping the screw cap—well you don't exactly pop it do you—this beautiful light copper, salmon colored Vin Gris sits very elegantly in the glass. It exudes, inhaling at first a most marvelous slightly-spicy citrus tea. Strawberries, watermelon, thyme and a faint musky quality. Now at this juncture I'd waffle lyrically about it being reminiscent of the beguiling bouquet of wild flowers in a early summer alpine meadow but my Wife said that would be remarkably akin to a C grade student trying too hard...  so I won't. The nose is confirmed by the palette, juicy fresh fruit, red berries and citrus, lemon and a touch of mandarin orange. A well-balanced velvety, fresh, light wine that's almost but not totally bone-dry. Very crisp and refreshing, it feels strangely enough... rather cleansing.

This wine pair's perfectly with Summer. One of those idle stolen moments on a glorious August afternoon when you really should be at work but have no intention of doing so. A riverside picnic, propped up under a weeping willow tree with a good book, dozing comfortably in the gentle warm breeze bathed in the dancing sunshine afforded by the shadow of the lithe branches.

If you've yet to take a dip into the welcoming waters that is Rosé wine you'd be hard pressed to find a better example. The celebrated Randall Grahm may well indeed be a bit of a mental but this wine is a noteworthy gorgeous mouthful of sheer genius, 90 points.

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